You Got Scammed. Here's What to Do in the First 24 Hours (2026 US Guide)

The first 24 hours after a scam are the ones that decide whether you get your money back. This is the calm, ordered checklist to work through right now — the universal first moves, then the exact next step for your specific situation, then how to report it. Don’t panic; work the list.

The first hour: stop the bleeding

1. Call your bank or card issuer’s fraud line. Ask them to recall, stop or dispute the payment, and to flag the card or account. This single call, made fast, is what most often recovers money.
2. Lock down your accounts. Change the passwords on your email first (it controls password resets everywhere), then your bank, then anything reused. Turn on two-factor authentication and sign out unknown devices.
3. Freeze your credit if any personal data was exposed. It’s free and stops new accounts being opened in your name — see how to freeze your credit.
4. Document everything. Screenshot the messages, the payment, the profile and the amounts; note dates, times, and any transaction or reference IDs. You’ll need them for your bank and for reporting.

Find your situation

What you do next depends on how you paid. Open the guide that matches yours:

Report it: the US stack

Reporting feeds investigations and, for transfers, can trigger a fund freeze. File where it fits:

• IdentityTheft.gov (the FTC) — for identity theft and a personalised recovery plan. This is the FTC’s tool; one report covers it.
• ic3.gov (FBI Internet Crime Complaint Center) — when money was lost to online crime; it routes to law enforcement and the Recovery Asset Team.
• reportfraud.ftc.gov — for consumer scams generally.
• CFPB — if a bank, card issuer or credit bureau won’t fix a fraudulent charge or dispute.
• Local police — get a case number; banks and insurers often require one.

For the full walkthrough, see how to report cybercrime in the United States (and recover your money).

Can you actually get your money back?

Honestly, it depends on how you paid and whether the charge was unauthorised (someone else moved your money — stronger protection) or authorised (you were tricked into sending it yourself — harder). Card payments carry the strongest dispute rights; bank-to-bank app transfers you authorised are the hardest. Each guide above explains your odds and the exact mechanics for that payment method.

Protect yourself going forward

• Keep your credit frozen — it’s the best free defence against new-account fraud.
• Get an IRS Identity Protection PIN if your SSN was exposed, to block tax-refund fraud.
• Beware "recovery" scams. Anyone who contacts you promising to get your lost money or crypto back for a fee is a second scam — legitimate authorities never charge for this.

Frequently asked questions

What’s the single most important thing to do after a scam? Call your bank or card issuer’s fraud line immediately — speed is what recovers money.

I sent money myself after being tricked. Can I still get it back? It’s harder (it counts as "authorised"), but not always hopeless — open the guide for your payment method above; card-funded payments especially may be disputable.

Where do I report a scam in the US? Start at IdentityTheft.gov (FTC) and ic3.gov (FBI); add a CFPB complaint if a financial company won’t help, and a local police report for a case number.

Should I pay a service to recover my money? No. Recovery-for-a-fee offers are themselves scams. Use the free official channels above.

You are not alone — see our country-by-country guide to reporting cybercrime and recovering your money for help wherever you are.

Sources

• FTC — IdentityTheft.gov
• FBI Internet Crime Complaint Center (IC3)
• FTC — ReportFraud
• CFPB — submit a complaint